From the Valley to the capital: How the Kashmiri pheran became Delhi’s winter staple

Delhi’s winter markets are buzzing with a fashion favourite. The Kashmiri pheran and kurta, once restricted to the Valley’s snowy lanes, have now become style staples in the capital. From college students in Jamia Nagar to shoppers in Lajpat Nagar and Janpath, the long, loose garment has found a place in wardrobes across age groups. Alongside pherans, Kashmiri kurtas, known for their intricate embroidery and soft fabrics, are also seeing a revival.

The trend is not sudden. Over the past five years, the influence of Kashmiri culture on north Indian style has steadily expanded. Social media, college fashion, winter weddings and a growing interest in regional clothing have pushed pherans into Delhi’s mainstream fashion. Markets such as Batla House, Lajpat Nagar, Chitli Qabar in Old Delhi, Janpath and Connaught Place are now lined with racks of colourful pherans in velvet, cotton, wool, georgette and newer blended fabrics.

Comfort, modesty and confidence

Afreen Ali, a student at Jamia Millia Islamia, browses through a rack at Batla House Market on a Friday afternoon. She already owns six pherans but insists she wants more. Afreen said that “she wears the pheran because it looks beautiful and she has built a great collection over the years”. She added that “she started with one simple cotton pheran and now she buys embroidered ones for outings and festivals”.

For young women like Afreen, pherans combine comfort, warmth and cultural charm. For others, the garment has also become a way to avoid discomfort and social judgement associated with certain outfits.

Zeenat Fatima, a journalism student who commutes daily from Okhla Vihar, shared that “she finds the pheran modest and suitable for college, markets and everywhere else”. She said that “during internships people sometimes gave her strange looks for wearing a burkha, so she shifted to wearing Kashmiri pherans almost every day”. She added that “she owns pherans and Kashmiri kurtas in many fabrics like silk, cotton, wool and velvet and she styles them according to the season”.

From daily wear to wedding fashion

The charm of the pheran is no longer limited to everyday wear. In Lajpat Nagar, the garment is emerging as a popular choice for winter weddings. Shoppers walk through narrow lanes filled with velvet pherans in deep maroon, navy and emerald green, decorated with tilla embroidery and paired with juttis and jewellery for a festive look.

Lavanya Sharma, shopping with friends in Lajpat Nagar Market, said that “she is buying her first pheran because she felt left out after watching her friends and social media influencers flaunt their outfits”. She said that “girls look very beautiful wearing these and that she is buying a velvet pheran with tilla kadhai for her friend’s wedding”.

A business transformed

The growing demand has reshaped the business of Kashmiri shops in Delhi. One of the most prominent examples is The Kashmir Hub in Zakir Nagar.

Muhib Arfeen Khan, the owner of The Kashmir Hub, explained that “when he opened his store seven to eight years ago people mostly came for shawls and Kashmiri suits”. He said that “they were barely surviving during the off season, so they started keeping Kashmiri bakery items, kehwa, dry fruits and spices”.

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Everything changed when pherans came into demand over the last four to five years. He said that “now young girls and women adore their collection”, adding that pherans sell in far larger numbers than other products and keep the shop busy throughout the year.

Earlier, he said, “they used to keep only the traditional pheran that people wear in Kashmir”, made of premium wool, very warm and expensive. “Those pherans cost from ten thousand to forty thousand rupees and the demand for them was limited,” he said. With lighter and more affordable versions entering the market, the audience expanded. Fabrics such as tosha, velvet, wool blends and raffle now allow buyers to choose pherans that suit both budget and comfort.

Markets with distinct identities

In Old Delhi’s Chitli Qabar Market, pherans made of georgette and lightweight velvet fill narrow shops. These are popular among women looking for stylish options for mild winter days, with shopkeepers saying demand has doubled in recent seasons.

At Ludhiana Woolen Sales, one of the oldest winterwear shops in the area, owner Shamshad said that “during winter they dedicate one complete section of the shop to pherans because that is the most demanded item”. He added that “customers now ask for brighter colours, modern fits and machine embroidered options which are easier to maintain and affordable for everyday wear”.

Janpath and Connaught Place attract students and officegoers who prefer trendy cotton pherans, shorter styles and Kashmiri kurtas with aari work. Shops such as S Paul Brothers display vibrant pieces outside their stores, with fixed-price options starting at Rs 850, making them accessible to students.

Each market has developed a distinct identity. Lajpat Nagar focuses on wedding and party wear, Janpath and Connaught Place on trendy and premium cotton pieces, Zakir Nagar on warm woollen pherans with heavy embroidery, and Old Delhi on a wide range of fabrics. Batla House Market in Okhla remains the go-to destination for students seeking stylish yet budget-friendly options.

Social media and cultural revival

Several shopkeepers say social media has played a key role in the surge. Reels featuring Kashmiri music and women twirling in embroidered pherans have fuelled the craze, while college campuses increasingly showcase fusion looks pairing pherans with boots, jeans and sneakers.

Rahila Begum, who runs a small stall in Batla House, said that “customers now ask for pastel shades, floral embroidery and even short pherans”. She added that “earlier the demand was only in December and January, but now people buy them throughout the year for travel, gifting and special events”.

In Janpath, Mohsin, a salesperson at a Kashmiri handicraft shop, said that “many customers ask about the difference between a Kashmiri kurta and a pheran”. He said that “they explain how the kurta is lightweight and good for summer, while the pheran is for winter and has a deeper cultural meaning”, adding that “both items sell equally well and people often buy matching stoles and caps”.

‘It feels like home’

For some buyers, the pheran is a fashion statement. For others, it is a deeply personal cultural expression.

Mehwish Lone, a Kashmiri student studying at Delhi University, said, “I feel very happy to see people wearing Kashmiri outfits, be it pherans or kurtas, because it feels like home away from my homeland, Kashmir.” She added that she had been in Delhi for six years and initially felt hesitant to wear Kashmiri outfits during the Covid period. “People judge Kashmiris for various reasons,” she said. “But when I started seeing women and young girls wearing them in public, it gave me confidence, and now I also wear them proudly.”

As winter deepens, pherans are expected to become even more visible across the city’s markets, colleges and festive gatherings. With shops adapting to new designs and customers experimenting with styles, the garment has crossed regional boundaries to carve out its own space in Delhi’s fashion landscape.

Much like shawls, cardigans and long coats, the pheran has now become a winter staple in the capital, distinguished by a strong sense of Kashmiri heritage that sets it apart.