A visit to the neglected tombs of Delhi rulers

Delhi: As you wander through the Qutub Minar complex, you might chance upon a desolate tomb with an imposing structure. Many visitors pass it by, unaware that it is not just another grave. A plaque identifies it as the final resting place of Iltutmish, also known as Shams al-Din Iltutmish, the third and arguably greatest sultan of the Delhi Sultanate’s so-called Slave dynasty.

Desolate grave of the first woman ruler

At the other end of the capital lies another neglected site: the grave of Razia Sultan, Iltutmish’s daughter and Delhi’s first female ruler. Tucked away in the narrow alleys of Bulbuli Khana in Delhi-6, it is not far from Rajghat and other samadhis that have been in the news following the demise of former Prime Minister Manmohan Singh.

The appalling condition of the site suggests that few visit to pay respects to Razia Sultan, who ruled Delhi from 1236 to 1240. A stone plaque by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) states: “Razia Sultan was the daughter of Iltutmish, the prominent ruler of the Slave Dynasty in the Delhi Sultanate. Iltutmish had appointed her as his successor before his death. He ignored the claims of his sons in favour of Razia Sultan.” She holds the distinc tion of being the first female Muslim ruler of the Indian subcontinent.

Long before the capital became dotted with samadhis of prominent leaders, numer ous rulers from different dynasties found their final resting place in Delhi. “Delhi has served as the capital of many empires throughout history. Naturally, rulers were often buried here,” says Professor Anirudh Deshpande from the Department of History at Delhi University.

Ruler’s tomb in Mehrauli

Another Mamluk ruler, Balban, rests in Mehrauli, not far from Iltutmish’s tomb. Balban’s tomb, a sturdy, square structure with an austere design, reflects the simplicity of his reign. Mehrauli seems to have been a chosen burial site for several rulers. Alauddin Khilji, the powerful Khilji ruler who expanded the Delhi Sultanate, is also buried in the Qutub complex. His tomb, however, lies in ruins.

“Who has the time and energy to visit these places?” asks Rajindera Kumar, a local social worker. Khilji’s capital was the present-day Siri Fort area near Hauz Khas, where he built a water tank as early as 1296 to serve the needs of his capital. The tank still exists, bear ing testimony to his architectural foresight.

Meanwhile, the tomb of Tughlaq ruler Firoz Shah Tughlaq is located in Hauz Khas. It is a simple yet majestic structure, reflecting his penchant for architectural projects. His tomb sits at the centre of a madrasa. Nearby, Mubarak Shah Sayyid, the second ruler of the Sayyid dynasty, is buried in Kotla Mubarakpur.

Lodhi dynasty’s in Lodhi Garden

Lodhi Garden houses the tombs of Bahlul Lodi, the founder of the Lodhi dynasty, and his successors. Sikandar Lodi, Bahlul’s son, also rests here in a structure of quiet dignity. Ibrahim Lodi, the last ruler of the Lodhi dynasty, is similarly interred here. Yet, visitors to the picturesque Lodhi Garden rarely spare a moment to explore these historical relics.

Where Mughals lie in eternal sleep

As Delhi was the capital for several Mughal rulers, the city is home to numerous tombs of the Mughal dynasty. Mughal Emperor Humayun rests in the iconic Humayun’s Tomb, alongside his wife Hamida Banu Begum, who commissioned the structure. Following her pilgrimage to Mecca in 1560, she is believed to have brought 300 Arab labourers to construct the grand mausoleum. For these workers, the Arab Ki Sarai was built in the Nizamuddin area.

Former Union Culture Minister Jagmohan once remarked that the Humayun’s Tomb complex contains more Mughal graves than any other site. It is also believed that Dara Shikoh, Shah Jahan’s eldest son known for his intellectual and spiritual pursuits, lies in an unmarked grave here, though there is no consensus on the exact location.

Few people know that Mughal Emperor Muhammad Shah Rangeela (1719–1748) is buried in one of the corners of the Nizamuddin Auliya complex.

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Lessons from history

Comparing modern-day samadhis spread across sprawling areas of prime land, Deshpande notes: “If Britain had built memorials for their kings, queens, and prime ministers as we do, the entire country would have turned into a memorial. We should earmark a specific site to commemorate our leaders collectively.”

Despite their historical significance, most of these tombs remain desolate. Perhaps the only exception is Rajghat, which sees steady footfall. Yet, the silence enveloping these tombs and samadhis seems to whisper a shared truth: time moves on, even as history lingers in its shadows.

Also read: Reimagining memorials: Do we care about them enough?

The writer is a Delhi-based senior journalist and author of two books ‘Gandhi’s Delhi: April 12, 1915-January 30, 1948 and Beyond’ and ‘Dilli Ka Pehla Pyar – Connaught Place