Madras Hotel: The place where Delhi fell head over heels over dosas

Priyavadan Rao now avoids visiting Connaught Place. It was here, in 1935—90 years ago—that his father, K Subba Rao, opened the iconic Madras Hotel. At the time, Connaught Place was still new, with many shops yet to open. Subba Rao, who hailed from Udupi in present-day Karnataka, named his restaurant Madras Hotel because, for Delhiites then, South India was synonymous with Madras.

From the very beginning, people flocked to the restaurant for its dosas, idlis and vadas. For the first time, Delhi was savouring high-class South Indian dishes, something unheard of in the city until then. In its early years, teachers and students from the nearby Lady Hardinge Medical College and hospital were among its regular patrons.

The Rao legacy

After Subba Rao’s untimely death in 1955, the responsibility of running Madras Hotel fell on his son. Until then, Priyavadan spent only a few hours a day at the restaurant, but his father’s passing changed that. He took charge immediately and made some key decisions. Customers asking for extra potato filling for their dosas or additional servings of sambar would never be refused, nor would they be charged extra.

This approach soon became Madras Hotel’s unique selling point. “Along with our parents, we siblings often visited the Madras Hotel to enjoy South Indian delicacies. We used to ask for sambar again and again, and the waiters never refused us,” recalls Dr Ravinderr Kumar, eminent author and Railway Board member. Many Delhiites still remember having extra helpings of potato filling or five to six servings of the restaurant’s piping-hot sambar, which they describe as soul-satisfying.

Located on the first floor of Connaught Place’s P Block, above the Central News Agency—a large shop for newspapers and magazines—the restaurant was accessible via a narrow staircase. From morning to evening, it remained packed with loyal customers.

The golden years

By the 1970s, Madras Hotel’s charm was at its peak. Thousands of food lovers visited daily. Its popularity was such that, in 1967, the bus terminal near Shivaji Stadium was named after the restaurant, though it was renamed Shivaji Stadium terminal in 1982.

For those visiting Connaught Place, relishing the restaurant’s dishes became a ritual. Veteran journalist Arun Kumar says those who have never tasted Madras Hotel’s food can never truly understand why Delhi was so enchanted by it.

The crispy dosas, vadas and idlis were divine, and the coconut chutney served alongside was unmatched. Delhi devoured thousands of these every day, yet demand never waned. The exquisite Madras Hotel thali—consisting of wet and dry vegetables, rasam, curd, papad, pickle and a sweet—was another favourite. Lunch service ran from 12 to 3 PM, with hundreds of hungry patrons eagerly finishing their thalis.

The chefs had clearly defined roles: some made only dosas, while others prepared idlis and vadas. All hailed from Udupi and spoke Kannada. Non-vegetarian dishes were never served, as Priyavadan, known affectionately as Rao Sahib, was uncompromising on this matter. He personally supervised operations, often checking with customers to ensure the taste and service were flawless.

“Who else gives such respect to their patrons?” asks Venkat Sundaram, former captain of Delhi’s Ranji Trophy team, who recalls that Rao Sahib also financially supported the famous Madras Cricket Club in the capital.

The end of an era

In 2005, tragedy struck. Madras Hotel had to vacate its rented premises after the property owners reclaimed the space. With that, one of Connaught Place’s most vibrant landmarks fell silent. Some believe the closure paved the way for the rise of Andhra Bhavan’s canteen, which gained popularity only after Madras Hotel shut down.

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When Rao Sahib left the restaurant for the last time, he wept like a child. Recently, as he celebrated his 90th birthday at his Gurugram home, conversations inevitably turned to the beloved restaurant. Listening to his friends reminisce, his eyes welled up with tears.