Delhi: As you journey from Kashmere Gate towards Rajghat along the bustling Mahatma Gandhi Road (formerly Bela Road), the first memorial you encounter on the left is Vijay Ghat, followed by Shanti Van, and finally Rajghat. These three samadhis were the first to be established, though not in this sequence.
Stepping into the expansive, lush green campus, you are greeted by an almost haunting silence. The hustle and bustle of the city seem to fade away, replaced by an air of serenity. Wandering through the grounds, you might notice only a few gardening staff quietly tending to the landscape.
Your first stop is Vijay Ghat, a tribute to Lal Bahadur Shastri, the diminutive yet towering leader who inspired the nation with his iconic slogan Jai Jawan, Jai Kisan. As you move to Shanti Van, the tranquil yet solemn atmosphere persists, enveloping you in a profound sense of stillness.
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Standing amidst the sprawling greenery, the occasional sounds of traffic from Mahatma Gandhi Road and the cheerful chirping of birds serve as subtle reminders of the world beyond these sacred spaces.
A question of remembrance
Where are the grateful citizens of India, who owe so much to Pt Nehru and Lal Bahadur Shastri? “I have been part of the All Religion Prayer at Shanti Van for many years, held here on November 14 and May 27 annually. I rarely see many people coming to pay homage to Nehruji. The same is true for Vijay Ghat,” says Brother Solomon George, a priest in Pitampura Church and member of the Delhi Brotherhood Society (DBS).
Sanjay Gandhi’s memorial is also located within Shanti Van.
Rajghat: A bustling exception
The bitter truth is that, except for Rajghat, the samadhi of Gandhiji, few people visit the other samadhis around Rajghat. Rajghat attracts hundreds of visitors daily, including a large number of domestic and international tourists.
“All those who visit Rajghat spend about 20 minutes inside the campus. School and college students ask many questions about Gandhiji,” shares Rajneesh Kumar, a long-time caretaker of Rajghat. Built on January 31, 1948, after Gandhiji was cremated at this site, the memorial bears the inscription of his last words, “Hey Ram,” on its black marble platform. The complex spans 44.35 acres.
Shakti Sthal and Other Memorials
Shakti Sthal, the memorial of former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, features a massive stone weighing over 25 tonnes. The site spans 45 acres. “I visit on Mrs Indira Gandhi’s birth anniversary. I have great reverence for her,” says Ashish Verma, a Congress activist from Delhi-6.
Interestingly, 1 Safdarjung Road, another memorial dedicated to Indira Gandhi, draws a steady stream of visitors daily. This was her official residence when she joined the cabinet of Lal Bahadur Shastri. Outside, toy sellers cater to tourists, adding a lively touch to the sombre site.
Memorials with unique designs
At Veer Bhumi, the samadhi of Rajiv Gandhi, some Congress workers are almost always present to pay their respects. “Visiting Rajghat and Veer Bhumi was a long-cherished desire. I feel truly blessed,” says Manish Nayak, a Congress worker from Nagpur. Spread over 15 acres, Veer Bhumi features rock-carved lotus motifs and 46 replicas depicting Rajiv Gandhi’s life.
Accessibility challenges
Accessibility issues may deter visitors from some memorials. For instance, visiting Sadaiv Atal, the samadhi of Atal Bihari Vajpayee, requires navigating the Nigam Bodh Ghat U-turn. However, this seven-acre memorial sees a fair number of visitors even on ordinary days.
Nearby are Samata Sthal (Babu Jagjivan Ram’s memorial), Kisan Ghat (former Prime Minister Charan Singh), Karmabhoomi (former President Dr Shankar Dayal Sharma), Sangharsh Sthal (Devi Lal), and Chandrashekhar’s memorial.
A second home for Shastri
Besides Vijay Ghat, there is another memorial for Lal Bahadur Shastri at 1 Janpath, where he lived for years. After Shastri’s death, this bungalow was allotted to his wife, Lalita Shastri, who lived there until her death in 1993. A trust now runs the memorial, but it faces financial difficulties.
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Deserted samadhis
In light of the recent acrimonious debate over building a memorial for former Prime Minister Dr Manmohan Singh following his death last week, one wonders: Should we continue constructing such memorials when they are so sparsely visited?
“I think the country needs to rethink whether we should build memorials, considering that they often remain deserted. It is very disheartening,” says social worker JS Shunty, founder of the Shaheed Bhagat Singh Sewa Dal.
Samadhis only come alive during birth and death anniversaries, marked by official ceremonies.
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