Mirza Ghalib: Echoes of eternity at Poet’s Mazar in Nizamuddin

Passing through the crowded yet lively streets of Basti Hazrat Nizamuddin on your way to the mazar of Mirza Ghalib, one can imagine the legendary poet making his way from his home to meet friends or attend an adabi mehfil (literary discourse). As you pass the Ghalib Academy to reach your destination, it is not uncommon to find a mushaira or discussion on Ghalib taking place. You might even hear some of Ghalib’s ever-popular couplets, such as “Yeh na thi hamari qismat ke visaal-e-yaar hota…“, “Hazaron khwahishein aisi ke har khwahish pe dam nikle…” or “Hum ko maalum hai jannat ki haqiqat lekin…”

Finally, you reach the mazar of Ghalib. It is a December afternoon in Delhi. Despite the smog, the sunny weather lends a serene ambience to the place. Around seven youngsters, divided into two groups, are inside the mazar campus, taking selfies. “I was in Delhi to attend the Jashn-e-Rekhta Festival. Once the festival concluded, I thought of visiting here. It is such a great feeling to be here,” says Akshay Khanna, an IT engineer from Mohali and a lover of Ghalib’s poetry.

The mazar of Ghalib is a popular site visited by a diverse group of people. Lovers of Urdu poetry and literature often come here for study and reflection. There was a time when Pakistanis visiting Delhi would visit in significant numbers.

“People who deeply admire Ghalib’s poetry and its profound philosophical themes visit here to pay their respects and connect with his legacy. Students learning Urdu often come to experience the cultural significance of Ghalib’s resting place,” says Dr Aqil Ahmad, Secretary of the Ghalib Academy.

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Who built Ghalib’s Mazar?

It was Hakim Abdul Hamid who rebuilt Ghalib’s tomb. He was the owner of Hamdard Dawakhana, the manufacturers of Rooh Afza. Hakim Abdul Hamid also established the Ghalib Academy in Basti Nizamuddin, which was inaugurated on February 22, 1969 by the then President of India, Dr Zakir Hussain. The Ghalib Academy houses a museum dedicated to Ghalib, where his statue, photographs, rare books, and important documents from his time are displayed. There is also an art gallery showcasing paintings by renowned artists such as Satish Gujral, MF Husain, and others.

In 1995, Hakim Abdul Hamid shared with this writer at his Chanakyapuri residence that the mazar area had been in a dilapidated state, with no one concerned about its upkeep. So, he took it upon himself to rebuild it with care and attention.

Noted television personality Vinod Dua also used to visit the mazar of Ghalib and would sit there for hours, recalls Sheikh Jilani, a social worker from the Basti Nizamuddin area. “Ghalib’s life was marked by struggles and personal tragedy, and many are drawn to his resilience and find solace in his story. His poetry delves into complex themes of life, death, and the human condition, attracting those seeking a deeper understanding. All those who read his work make it a point to visit his mazar or birthplace whenever they have the opportunity,” Jilani shares.

When Iqbal visited Ghalib’s Mazar

It is said that Muhammad Iqbal visited Ghalib’s mazar numerous times. He was profoundly influenced by Ghalib’s poetry and thoughts, considering a visit to Ghalib’s tomb akin to a pilgrimage for poets. Iqbal held a deep reverence for Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya and would always visit the dargah and Ghalib’s mazar whenever he came to Delhi. Iqbal would spend entire nights at the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. His first visit to these sites was on September 2, 1905, before he left for England. By then, he had already penned the iconic song Saare jahan se achha Hindustan hamara.

Pilgrimage for many

Visiting Ghalib’s mazar is a deeply personal and often profound experience for lovers of his poetry. The emotions it evokes are complex and multifaceted, reflecting the layered nature of Ghalib’s work and enduring legacy. “For many, visiting Ghalib’s mazar is akin to a pilgrimage. It’s a tangible connection to the man behind the words they hold so dear. It’s a chance to be in the physical space where his mortal life ended, feeling a sense of nearness to his spirit,” says Jilani.

“I have a deep respect and admiration for Ghalib’s genius. The mazar becomes a place of veneration, a space to acknowledge and honour his contribution to Urdu literature and thought. Like me, many lovers of Ghalib feel immense gratitude for his legacy. Visiting his resting place allows them to express this gratitude,” says Feroz Bakhat Ahmed, a noted writer.

Ghalib’s poetry often grapples with themes of life, death, and the human condition. Being at his mazar can prompt introspection on these very themes, making visitors reflect on their own mortality and the fleeting nature of life.

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Silet dialogue with Ghalib’s Mazar

“Ghalib’s work is riddled with philosophical inquiry. Standing at his tomb might trigger similar lines of questioning, prompting a personal examination of one’s beliefs and values. Many feel a sense of silent dialogue with Ghalib himself while at his mazar. They reflect on his words and imagine the thoughts and struggles he might have faced. It’s a space for inner conversation and contemplation,” says Delhi-based businessman Deepak Joshi, who has been reading Ghalib’s work since childhood

Many people living in and around the Nizamuddin area visit the mazar frequently as a place of peace and quiet contemplation. Those who visit the Ghalib Academy invariably pay homage at the mazar. “Frankly speaking, people from around the world interested in South Asian culture, Urdu literature, and Mughal history visit Ghalib’s tomb. Further, tourists from other parts of India keen on Delhi’s cultural heritage are also frequent visitors,” informs Dr Aqil.

The serene atmosphere of the mazar provides a space for introspection and connection to something larger than oneself.

The writer is a Delhi-based senior journalist and author of two books ‘Gandhi’s Delhi: April 12, 1915-January 30, 1948 and Beyond’ and ‘Dilli Ka Pehla Pyar – Connaught Place