Not very far from the Delhi Junction, as you move towards Fathepuri market, you will spot a small red-brick church tucked into the crowded area known for its spices. The aroma of spices greets you as you wander here. Well, this is St. Stephens Church, built in 1862. Currently, hectic preparations for Christmas are underway, and old Christian families of Delhi-6 visit here for prayers.
“Of course, Christmas is a special occasion for the community to pray and celebrate here,” says Brother Solomon George of the Delhi Brotherhood Society (DBS), which built both St. Stephens College in 1899 at Kinari Bazaar in Chandni Chowk and the church itself
The original design of St. Stephen’s Church remains intact, unchanged since its construction. The name of the designer is unknown, as no one here holds this information. The church is a classic example of Gothic-style architecture, notable for its ornate walls, intricate ceilings, and a unique stained glass rose window—the only one of its kind in Delhi.
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On a stone within St. Stephen’s Church, the name of the renowned Principal of St. Stephen’s College, Prof Sushil Kumar Rudra, is inscribed. “Prof Rudra was a famous educationist. He also played an important role in the establishment of Modern School on Barakhamba Road. When Gandhiji visited Delhi in 1915, he stayed at Prof Rudra’s residence inside the college at Kashmiri Gate,” informs Karam Masih, former Bishop of Delhi.
Not only Christian families of Delhi-6 but also those who have moved away continue to visit the church during Christmas, Good Friday, Easter, and other occasions. Ajay Solomon, a transporter, recalls, “Our family used to live in Darya Ganj. We often visited St. Stephen’s Church with our parents when we were young. The mood and energy in and around the church are electric.”
It can be safely said that after St. James Church at Kashmiri Gate, St. Stephen’s Church was built, making it one of the oldest churches in the city. St. James Church is certainly the first church of Delhi.
First church of East Delhi
The Baptist Church in Shahdara, across the Yamuna, was established in 1861. It predates St. Stephen’s Church. However, at the time of its construction, Shahdara was not part of Delhi but fell under Meerut district. It was merged with Delhi only after the city was declared the new capital of India in 1911. The Baptist Church was built by the Baptist Missionary Society.
“Not many Christians live around this church today, but Christians from other parts of East Delhi do visit,” says Shunty Grover, a local social worker.
Where protestant Christians visit
The Protestant Christian community frequently visits St. James Church, St. Stephen’s Church, and the Baptist Church. They also gather at the beautiful Cathedral Church of the Redemption, designed by Henry Medd, near Rashtrapati Bhavan, as well as St. Thomas Church on Mandir Marg and St. Martin Church in Delhi Cantonment.
“All these churches have a very rich history, and generations of the Protestant Christian community visit them regularly for prayers as an article of faith,” says Prof Monodeep Daniyal, who leads the choir group at the Cathedral Church of the Redemption.
Churches designed by Henry Medd
The Sacred Heart Cathedral at Gole Dak Khana was also designed by Henry Medd. He was among many young architects who came to New Delhi to assist masters like Sir Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker during the rapid development of the city in the early part of the last century. Henry Medd left a lasting mark by designing both the Cathedral Church of the Redemption and the Sacred Heart Cathedral. He served as Chief Architect to the Government of India from 1939 to 1947.
When army men visit this church
St Martin Church in Delhi Cantonment, built in 1929, is a majestic structure designed by Arthur Gordon Shoosmith, one of the key architects involved in creating the new capital. It stands as a stellar example of Indo British architecture, where Western design techniques were adapted to local materials and climatic conditions. Shoosmith, known for his work on St. Martin Church in Delhi Cantonment, also designed St. Thomas Church on Mandir Marg, showcasing his signature blend of Indo-British architecture.
Brother George Solomon, who served for many years as a priest at St. Martin Church, shares, “It was built by the British government for Christians serving in the Army and residents of the cantonment area. Once the British left India, the church continued to serve the Protestant community. I often wondered, during my time there, what the area beyond Dhaula Kuan must have looked like back then— most likely a deserted landscape.”
A home for Northeast Christians in Delhi
The local Christian community from the Northeast states feels at home when attending Christmas mass at the Sacred Heart Cathedral. Officially named the Roman Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart, its vibrant red façade stands out. Ngaoni R James, a Manipur-based Christian living in Noida, shares, “Members of the Northeast Catholic community in Delhi NCR love to gather here, particularly for Christmas. After prayers, families spend quality time together.”
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Where the Anglo-Indian community prays
Finally, the small Anglo-Indian community in Delhi identifies strongly with St. James Church. Built by James Skinner in 1836, it was already a landmark during the time of Mirza Ghalib. Late RV Smith, himself an Anglo-Indian, once remarked that the community, mostly based in Kashmiri Gate and Mori Gate in the early 20th century, preferred St. James Church for their Sunday prayers and Christmas celebrations. They identify with James Skinner, who was also an Anglo-Indian.
From the Gothic beauty of St Stephens to the Indo-British elegance of St. Martins, Delhi’s historic churches are a testament to the city’s rich cultural and architectural heritage. For generations, they have been places of worship, community, and celebration—their legacy standing tall amidst the bustling lanes of a modernising city.
The writer is a Delhi-based senior jour nalist and author of two books ‘Gandhi’s Delhi: April 12, 1915-January 30, 1948 and Beyond’ and ‘Dilli Ka Pehla Pyar – Connaught Place’