A feast of heritage: Mahmudabad’s twin legacy of cuisine and cars

Writer, historian, and academic Raja Ali Khan of Mahmudabad is the present custodian of the celebrated culinary and automotive legacy of the House of Mahmudabad, once among the largest taluqdaris of Awadh in the Mughal era. The family, based in Amroha in western Uttar Pradesh, traces its lineage to the first Caliph of Islam.

Khan has dedicated himself to preserving the legacy of his illustrious house, renowned for its rich culinary tradition and enviable collection of cars. At one time, the Mahmudabad family owned 24 automobiles, the jewel in the crown being the rare 1933 Belgian-made Minerva AL Landaulette de Ville. Known as the “Belgian Rolls Royce” and among the largest cars in the world, it served as the state motor car for many years. Custody of the vehicle later passed to advocate and connoisseur Diljeet Titus.

Earlier this month, Khan and Titus collaborated to host Safar-e-Zaika at Le Meridien, New Delhi, celebrating both legacies of Mahmudabad.

Preserving a culinary tradition

Over an elaborate gourmet dining experience, Khan spoke of his family’s enthralling heritage. “Mahmudabad’s cuisine is of course similar to Awadh’s but we have distinct recipes and methods of preparation that are unique to us, and some find their origins in the times of the Mughals,” he explained.

While the cuisine has remained largely consistent, he noted that changes in ingredient quality and availability of spices have led to some adaptations. “The integrity of the food remains,” Ali Khan maintained, though he admitted that certain recipes are occasionally tweaked according to palates and tastes.

The family is fortunate to still employ cooks whose families have been in service for eight generations. As a result, much of the cuisine has endured. Yet, many recipes—once passed orally—have faded with time, often shaped by the tastes of each generation.

Among the dishes that continue to be cooked in Mahmudabad kitchens are Noor Mohali Pulao and Kachchi Biryani. Others, such as Jauzi Halva and Lab-e-Mashooq, have either been lost to history or reimagined in new forms. Some recipes, though no longer prepared, survive through documentation in works such as Dining with the Maharajas (Roli Books).

Ali Khan fondly listed his favourites: “Mahi Musallam, or whole fish, Yakhni Pulao, Muthiya Kebab and Iskhtew. In winter, I love our preparation of fresh peas with arhar daal and kaala namak chawal.”

The legacy of cars

Alongside cuisine, the Mahmudabad family’s collection of cars remains a defining feature of its legacy. “I am not a collector, but our family is custodian of a few cars that remain from the time of our elders and ancestors,” said Khan.

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While food and automobiles are celebrated aspects of Mahmudabad, the family is equally remembered for its literary and educational patronage, as well as its poetic traditions. Today, the family has opened its homes in Lucknow and Mahmudabad to visitors eager to experience this cultural heritage.

Ali Khan shared a childhood memory passed down by his father: “In 1951, my father hid in the car at the wedding of his elder sister in Mahmudabad in order to secretly drink Vimto. He said the ride was so smooth that he didn’t feel the car move, and the next thing he knew, he was in Lucknow, about 60 km away, while there was commotion in the Qila of Mahmudabad because he was nowhere to be found.”

A new chapter for a vintage jewel

The celebrated Minerva is now being restored by Titus and is set to feature as one of the major attractions at the prestigious Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance in California, USA, this summer. This restoration marks not only the survival of an extraordinary car but also the continued celebration of Mahmudabad’s unique twin legacies.