On a humid Sunday morning in Shalimar Bagh, the air hung thick with the scent of wet clay and dust. The narrow pathway leading to the Sheesh Mahal, once a glittering jewel of Mughal architecture, was cluttered with construction tools and freshly laid red tiles, still soft underfoot.
Labourers rested under the shade of neem trees, taking a break from the relentless work, while their children played barefoot nearby, darting between piles of bricks and sacks of cement. From behind the monument, a group of local children emerged through a densely wooded park, slipping through the iron fencing unnoticed. There was no guard to stop them.
A Mughal garden steeped in history
Shalimar Bagh, a historic Mughal-era garden complex in north Delhi, is laid out in the classic Char Bagh style. Once known as Aizzabad Garden, it is believed to have been built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of Aizzun-Nisha Begum. The name ‘Shalimar’ is said to derive from the words ‘Shala’ and ‘Mara’, meaning ‘abode of pleasure’, reportedly given by the emperor himself.
At the heart of this garden stands Sheesh Mahal, a palace constructed in 1653. The site holds historical importance as the place where Aurangzeb held his first coronation in 1658.
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Work unfinished, visitors confused
Despite the grand reopening earlier this month, the Sheesh Mahal remained eerily quiet. There were no crowds, no guided tours, and no informative boards to help visitors understand the monument’s significance. The newly installed lighting poles stood tall but unlit. A dusty inauguration panel and a single description board near the crumbling façade were the only signs that anything official had taken place.
The palace was officially reopened on July 2, 2025, by Union Minister for Culture and Tourism Gajendra Singh Shekhawat after decades of neglect. The restoration gained momentum following a visit by Lieutenant Governor Vinai Kumar Saxena in early 2024. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) handled the palace’s structural restoration, while the Delhi Development Authority (DDA) was tasked with reviving the surrounding Mughal-style gardens.
But when Patriot visited the site, it was clear that the work was far from complete. The water channel in front of the monument—a key feature of Mughal garden design—lay dry and half-repaired. Walkways were unfinished, and construction materials and tools were scattered across the grounds.
‘Not restoration, it’s still a worksite’
“We came here after seeing the news but were left guessing for directions,” said Suresh Sharma, who had travelled from Ghaziabad with his wife and children. He added that even the locals seemed unaware of the monument’s existence, which, to him, was a clear sign that “it’s not ready.”
Another visitor, Amir from south Delhi, said he felt misled by the announcement. “This isn’t restoration,” he said, pointing at broken tiles and exposed cement. “It’s still a worksite.”
Parts of the palace floor remain cracked and worn. Several internal compartments were being used to store construction tanks and iron grills. Although the dust had been cleared for the inauguration, the overall atmosphere suggested a rushed cleanup rather than a completed restoration.
ASI and DDA pass the buck
In response to these observations, Raj Kumar Patel, Superintending Archaeologist (Delhi circle) of the ASI, stated that Sheesh Mahal had been reopened to the public following essential conservation work. “While minor works are still ongoing—as conservation is a continuous process—the monument itself is accessible,” he said.
Patel explained that since Sheesh Mahal is a non-ticketed monument, like the majority of ASI sites in Delhi, there is no gate or formal entry system. The conservation, he clarified, focused solely on the protected structure and did not extend to the entire Shalimar Bagh area.
A senior ASI official, speaking on condition of anonymity, added that while conservation of the monument itself had been completed, there had been no formal proposal for a full-scale revival of the site. The official said that elements such as the fountain, floral paintings, and ornamental plasterwork were being considered for a second phase of work, for which research and cost estimation were currently underway.
The official further clarified that infrastructure development—such as laying pathways and building visitor amenities—fell under the DDA’s jurisdiction. “They have initiated some improvements in the park area, including setting up a cafeteria and a reading room,” the official said. However, he added that grassing, pathway development, and other amenities were still in progress, particularly in the lower part of the compound, which required further attention.
When Patriot approached DDA spokesperson Bijay Shankar Patel for comment, he requested that questions be sent via text. The online version of the article will be updated as and when Patriot receives a response.
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Green café opens amid crumbling walls
Nestled among dense trees in one corner of the garden is a newly opened café. Surrounded by greenery and shaded from the heat, the café matches the serene, historical vibe of the monument. Workers have made a sincere attempt to give it an earthy, rustic feel, with wooden furniture, mud-coloured walls, and an open-air seating area that blends with the natural surroundings.
Nearby, a reading room has also been opened in another restored structure. However, a third building within the complex is still under repair, with its walls covered in scaffolding.
The Sheesh Mahal may have been inaugurated with fanfare, but it is far from ready to welcome visitors in earnest. For now, it stands more as the backdrop of a political ceremony than a finished cultural site prepared to celebrate its rich Mughal legacy.
