Stepping into Jhelum, the Kashmiri Pandit food festival at Crowne Plaza Today Gurugram, is akin to having a slice of Kashmir itself. The front entry is adorned with a crewel curtain, a traditional Kashmiri handicraft that adds a touch of authenticity. Beside it hangs a poster of a traditional Kashmiri Pandit hearth, evoking memories of warmth and togetherness. This thoughtful decor sets the tone for an evening steeped in culture and tradition.
Guests are greeted with signature welcome drinks that are as evocative as their names—Kashmir Ki Kahani, a delightful blend of apple and saffron, and Noor-e-Kashmir, a refreshing combination of rose and lavender. The beverages not only quench the thirst but also introduce the diners to the subtle yet rich flavours of Kashmiri cuisine.
The flavours of tradition
Curated by Chef Rahul Wali, a native of Srinagar, the menu is a celebration of Kashmiri Pandit culinary traditions. The food is deeply rooted in history, with mentions as far back as the Nilamata Purana, a Vedic text, and reflects a cuisine that dates back to 326 BCE. Unlike most Indian cuisines, it avoids the trinity of onions, garlic, and tomatoes, instead relying on ingredients like asafoetida, fennel, turmeric, and dry ginger powder.
Wali, in an interview with Patriot, shared, “Kashmiri Pandit food is more than just sustenance; it’s a living legacy. Every dish we serve carries the heritage of our community, which prioritises simplicity while celebrating bold, authentic flavours.”
A culinary symphony
The journey begins with an amuse-bouche of Babri Byool Kesar Lassi, a saffron-infused yoghurt drink, paired with Achari Chirr Tsoth, a pickled flatbread bite that teases the palate with tangy and spicy notes.
The soup course offers a choice between Mutton Saunf Rass, a light broth flavoured with fennel and turmeric, served with Tak Tich bread, or the vegetarian Palak Adrak Rass, a ginger-spiced spinach soup. These dishes highlight the Kashmiri way of coaxing maximum flavour from minimal ingredients.
Next comes the Haakh Patta Chaat, a modern twist on collard greens topped with mustard oil, yoghurt, and a light sonth foam. The starters are a showcase of Kashmiri craftsmanship, featuring dishes like Kabargah, tender mutton ribs marinated in milk and fried, and the innovative Talith Gaad Taco, which marries fried fish with aamchoor powder and makki roti. For vegetarians, highlights include Warimuth, a black turtle bean delicacy served with radish relish, and Nadir, a dish of lotus stem and potatoes complemented by tangy chutneys.
For the main course, diners are treated to saffron-infused rice paired with signature dishes such as Tandgi Yakhni, tender chicken cooked with aromatic spices, or Cher Mutz, flavourful mutton koftas with hints of apricot. Vegetarian options include Gucchi Yakhni, morels in a yoghurt-based curry, or the unique Seb Baigan, where apples and aubergines come together in a turmeric chilli curry. Accompaniments like Rajma or Havan Dal complete the meal, staying true to Kashmiri Pandit cooking traditions.
Wali passionately described the Rogan Josh, a Kashmiri staple, as an experience everyone must try to understand what the dish is truly meant to be. “Many people have very different ideas about Rogan Josh. This is an opportunity to experience its authentic version—flavourful but not overwhelmingly spicy.”
The Kabargah Mutton, another highlight, captures the finesse of Kashmiri Pandit cuisine. “It’s made with lamb ribs, marinated and cooked in milk, then fried. It’s simple yet incredibly flavourful. The spices, especially hing (asafoetida) and curd, are non-negotiable in getting the taste just right,” he explains.
“Whatever my mother or grandmother cooked when I was young, I have tried to recreate those flavours. Of course, I may not have the magic touch they did, but I have done my best to bring those childhood memories onto the plate,” he said.
A dash of determination
Bringing the Jhelum festival to life was not without its challenges. “Our guests come from across India and abroad. The key is balance—ensuring the food remains authentic while making it accessible to those unfamiliar with the cuisine,” Wali told Patriot.
Wali added that sourcing the right ingredients was crucial. “I source my own spices because they must be of the best quality,” he said. “Every ingredient, from the red chilli powder to the saunth (dried ginger), plays a role in creating the authentic flavours of Kashmiri Pandit cuisine.”
“Sourcing local ingredients, especially outside Kashmir, can be tricky. But it’s these small hurdles that make the end result even more rewarding,” said the chef.
Wali works single-handedly to prepare the dishes at the Jhelum festival. “Right now, I am a one-man army,” he revealed, laughing. “I don’t need a big team for this, but when I cater to larger events, like sit-down dinners for 1,500 people, I have people joining me. For this festival, I am personally crafting each dish to ensure it meets the standards I have set for myself.”
When asked about his creative process, he said that every dish presents a unique challenge. “It’s not just about cooking; it’s about maintaining consistency in flavours every time. That’s the real test. Every dish is slow-cooked, and there’s no cutting corners if you want to preserve the essence of the cuisine.”
“The goal is to educate people about this cuisine. Many are unfamiliar with it, and I see festivals like this as an opportunity to share our traditions and flavours with a wider audience,” he added.
Hosted across two dining venues—Kaansa and Cafe G—Jhelum blends authenticity with culinary storytelling. Guests are encouraged to interact with Wali, who is eager to share the stories behind the dishes. “I talk to guests about the history of Kashmiri Pandit cuisine—how it evolved, why certain spices are used, and the cultural significance of the dishes. Education is as much a part of this festival as the food itself,” he said.
A growing legacy
While the focus of Jhelum is on tradition, Wali has also experimented with modern interpretations of Kashmiri cuisine in the past. “I have used molecular gastronomy and created five-course sit-down meals,” he said.
Looking ahead, Wali hopes to continue exploring new ways to bring this cuisine to the forefront of India’s culinary landscape. “It’s still a lesser-known cuisine, even within India. Festivals like this are important for educating people and creating awareness. I hope diners leave not just with full stomachs but also with a deeper understanding of Kashmiri Pandit traditions.”
Jhelum is a celebration of flavours, memories, and cultural heritage. The festival, running until November 23, offers diners a rare glimpse into a cuisine that is as rich in history as it is in flavour.
