As the chill of winter descends upon Old Delhi, the city’s labyrinthine lanes come alive with a feast of flavours that have warmed generations through the coldest months. These delicacies, steeped in history and tradition, are not just food but an experience, connecting the present with the opulence of the Mughal era. Here’s your guide to the culinary treasures that make winter in Old Delhi an unforgettable journey:
Habshi Halwa, also known as Sohan Halwa
From Asli Habshi Halwa Sohan Ghanta Ghar Wala, a centuries-old shop in the bylanes of Ballimaran, comes a delicacy with its own history. To reach Ballimaran, one must cross the street called Gali Qasim Jaan—yes, the one where Mirza Ghalib lived. But this street is not only famous for Ghalib’s Haveli but also for a winter treat steeped in tradition. A sweet dish from the Mughal era, it is called Habshi Halwa due to its black colour. Made from milk, sugar, ghee, refined flour, and edible gum, the preparation involves separating milk solids, mixing them with sugar, and cooking the mixture over a slow flame to caramelise the sugar and achieve its dark brown hue. Sprouted wheat is ground to a paste and cooked with milk and sugar for over four hours. While available year-round, the halwa is best enjoyed in winter, as it is considered one of the most potent (Takatwar) halwas by Old Delhi residents.
Walnut Halwa
Walnut Halwa may not enjoy the fame of Habshi Halwa or Moong ki Daal ka Halwa, but it is one of the most nutritious winter treats. Available only between December and February, this short-lived sweet is cherished by locals on chilly winter nights, often enjoyed while watching TV. It is not as widely available, but one can find it in Old Delhi‘s traditional sweet shops or halwais, particularly in Lak Kuan’s Rodgran corner.
Gajak
Towards the end of Lal Kuan lies Farash Khana, a 200-year-old neighbourhood established during the Mughal era. Formerly home to the famous Mughal Queen Zeenat Mahal, the area is now a bustling residential hub. At the entrance to this mohalla, one can find three or four shops renowned for making some of the finest Gajak in India. Among them is Roopchand Gajakwale, a shop over 200 years old. In addition to Gajak, other winter delights found here include:
Desi Ghee ki Rewri: The saffron-flavoured variety stands out among the jaggery and sugar rewris available in the market.
Jaggery, Mungfali or Chana Patti: Beloved winter snacks that have been sold in this area since the Mughal era, known for their ability to boost immunity against the cold.
Til ke Laddu
Til ke laddu, made from sesame seeds, jaggery, dry fruits, and desi ghee, are known for their immunity-boosting properties and are a staple winter treat in Old Delhi. They are widely available and often accompanied by rolls made of similar ingredients with a twist of khoya. Other winter snacks like murmure and jaggery laddus, as well as jaggery sev, are also popular during the season.
Khurchan
In Kinari Bazaar, a modest shop called Hazarilal Jain Khurchan Wale serves delectable khurchan. This dessert is made from milk scraped off vessels after prolonged boiling, lending it a unique caramelised flavour. Perfectly light yet satisfying, it is a favourite among dessert lovers seeking something sweet after a hearty breakfast in Old Delhi.
Gond Ka Halwa
Gond, or edible gum, is a winter staple for Old Delhi residents. From Gond Makhane, a nutritious evening snack prepared at home, to panjiri, a winter delicacy also made with gond, these treats are usually homemade but are widely available during the season. Gond ka Halwa, in particular, can be found in the sweet shops from Jama Masjid to Chandni Chowk, providing a rich and warming treat for winter evenings.
Also Read: Top 5 snow parks in Delhi-NCR for your ultimate winter getaway
Winter in Old Delhi is a celebration of flavours and traditions, a journey through time that leaves one both satiated and nostalgic. Each delicacy carries with it the essence of the city’s rich history and cultural tapestry, making it a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.
