Vanishing threads: Kashmiri shawl sellers struggle to survive in Delhi

- February 7, 2025
| By : Haroon Rashid |

With dwindling sales and rising competition from machine-made products, traditional artisans face an uncertain future

Shawl sellers in Delhi are grappling with a harsh economic reality as demand for their products continues to decline. The traditional textile trade, once a thriving industry, is now on the verge of collapse. Machine-produced alternatives, which are significantly cheaper, have replaced the intricate, handcrafted shawls, pushing artisans and traders to the brink. The Kashmiri shawl sellers, in particular, are struggling with this shift, forced to lower their prices in a desperate bid to stay afloat.

For generations, these artisans have been custodians of a rich textile heritage, but today, they face an unprecedented sales drought that threatens their very existence. The once-vibrant shawl markets of Delhi—particularly in areas like Chandni Chowk and Karol Bagh—are undergoing a dramatic transformation. Where hundreds of traders once thrived, now only empty stalls and despondent faces remain.

“I have never seen this type of market atmosphere; it seems like someone has done some sort of black magic,” said Parvaiz Ahmad, a shawl seller from Kashmir. “I have been selling shawls for over 35 years in Delhi. I come here every winter, leaving my family back home, but the market is in such decline that I am thinking of finding an alternative to feed my family. Back then, people used to wear shawls, but now it seems the younger generation does not like them.”

A dwindling trade

Shawl sellers are witnessing an alarming drop in sales. Muneer Ahmad, a 52-year-old vendor with 30 years of experience, sits near his shop with unsold inventory. “I used to sell 150 to 200 shawls in a season. Now I’m lucky if I sell 70,” he said, pointing to stacks of carefully folded Pashmina shawls.

Despite the artistic value of shawls, the artisans who master this craft earn very little. Many make no more than Rs 10,000 to Rs 12,000 a month—an amount insufficient to sustain a livelihood, let alone support a family. The process of crafting a single shawl is labour-intensive, requiring immense patience and skill, yet the financial rewards remain meagre. As a result, many young people are opting for more lucrative careers outside the traditional industry.

“We are hardly earning enough to sustain our lives,” said Nazrul, a local Kalamkari artisan. “I am thinking of leaving this profession; there are hardly any buyers, and if there are no buyers, there will be no work for us.” He also pointed out that younger generations are hesitant to take up this profession due to its declining viability.

Desperation in wholesale markets

Wholesale markets paint a grim picture of desperation. Traders are now willing to sell shawls at cost price just to generate some cash flow. Seasonal buyers have disappeared completely, leaving sellers with warehouses full of unsold stock.

Tahir Ahmad, a wholesaler, described his struggle: “I am getting frustrated day after day. I wish I had not come this season. I keep thinking about how I will feed my family. The market is so bad that I should have at least saved money on rent or groceries.”

A craft on the brink

The current market landscape reveals a complex set of economic pressures systematically undermining the traditional shawl trade. Reduced consumer spending power, rising production costs, and fierce competition from machine-made alternatives have created a perfect storm for artisans and sellers.

The volatility of the global textile market further complicates matters, as shifting consumer preferences increasingly favour synthetic and cheaper fabrics over meticulously handcrafted textiles.

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Mohammad Yaseen, a 62-year-old Kashmiri shawl seller with over three decades of experience, provided a poignant insight into this decline. “We are witnessing the slow death of our craft.”

Adapting to survive

The economic pressure has led small traders to form unexpected alliances. Many are pooling resources and sharing shop spaces while exploring online sales channels. Some have turned to social media platforms to reach customers beyond traditional markets. Younger entrepreneurs are experimenting with design modifications, blending traditional weaving with contemporary patterns in an attempt to revive interest.

“We need to change or die,” said Irfan Ahmad, a young shawl seller. “We should try to create different designs to appeal to younger generations. We should give it a modern touch by integrating it into western wear, or else the art will fade away.