Dussehra has returned to Old Delhi, transforming its narrow lanes into a spectacle of lights, sounds, and celebration. As you walk past the historic Red Fort and Ramlila Maidan, you’ll be drawn to the dazzling displays—carnival rides whirring, towering tents rising against the sky, and loudspeakers blaring festive tunes. This vibrant celebration, steeped in centuries of history, breathes life into the heart of the city each year.
A historic celebration
Historian S Irfan Habib shared with Patriot how deeply embedded Dussehra is in Delhi’s history. He explained that after Shah Jahan shifted the Mughal capital from Agra to Delhi and founded the walled city of Shahjahanabad, he actively supported the celebration of major Hindu festivals observed by both his soldiers and the public.
Dussehra, in particular, was introduced for the Hindu soldiers in his army and celebrated along the banks of the Yamuna, behind the Red Fort. Historian and author Syed Ubaidur Rahman told Patriot that under the Mughals, Delhi celebrated not only Eid and Muharram but also Diwali and Dussehra with great splendour.
Munshi Faizuddin, in his Bazm-e-Aakhir, provides a detailed account of how the capital city of Mughal India was beautifully illuminated during both Hindu and Muslim festivals. On Dussehra, the emperor would hold court in all his grandeur. A pair of majestic hawks and falcons would be presented to the emperor, marking the beginning of the festivities that spread through the court and the city.
Rahman added that Dussehra celebrations became even more magnificent during the reign of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, who ascended the throne in 1837. Under his rule, Dussehra became one of the grandest festivals in Delhi, rivalling Muslim festivals like Eid and Milad in splendour.
Even the women in the Mughal royalty were able to watch and enjoy the celebrations of the Dussehra from their quarters in the Red Fort.
According to Irish historian Vincent Arthur Smith, the tradition of burning large effigies of Ravana began during Bahadur Shah Zafar’s time. Even the women of the Mughal zenana were able to watch and enjoy the Dussehra celebrations from their quarters in the Red Fort.
Habib noted that, on Dussehra mornings in the 19th century, Bahadur Shah Zafar would oversee the ceremonial release of a Neelkanth bird (Indian Roller) from the Red Fort, as documented in Faizuddin’s memoirs.
Making of effigies
The tradition of burning giant effigies of Ravana during Dussehra dates back to Bahadur Shah Zafar’s reign in the 1830s. Smith notes the significant role played by the Muslim community, particularly artists and artisans.
Although smaller than today’s versions, these effigies were made by the same artisans—Muslims from present-day Uttar Pradesh and local craftsmen—who also created Tazias for Muharram, using paper, cloth, and bamboo. The crackers were fitted into the effigies by the atishbaazs from the lanes behind the Jama Masjid, where a few shops still survive.
Ramlila Savari
The Ramlila Savari, a Dussehra tradition, has continued uninterrupted for over 180 years.
Historian Rana Safvi wrote in her blog Dussehra Festivities in Shahjahanabad that Ramlila performances filled the streets, with people dressed as Lord Rama, Sita, Lakshman, and Ravana parading on chariots. Each day featured new tableaus.
In the evenings, large crowds of men and women from all classes and creeds gathered at the Ramlila grounds to watch scenes from the Ramayana unfold. During the depiction of Lord Rama’s exile, a boatman would row a boat carrying Rama, Sita, and Lakshman across Shahji’s pond, symbolising the Ganga, near the grounds. After 1947, the pond was filled in to create Kamla Market.
From the first day of Navratri to Dussehra, actors portraying Ram, Lakshman, Sita, and Ravana continue to feature in the grand procession. This three-hour journey begins at Dauji Temple on Esplanade Road and ends at Ramlila Maidan.
Safvi shared with Patriot, “The first Ramlila Committee of Old Delhi was established during the reign of Bahadur Shah Zafar, who introduced the Ramlila Savari after ascending the throne in the 1830s. Since then, the Shri Ramlila Committee (SRC), the oldest organisation, has overseen this tradition. It reflects the Mughal custom of celebrating festivals like Diwali, Dussehra, and Holi within the Red Fort. As seen in Mughal miniature paintings and historical accounts, this is a heritage deeply woven into our cultural fabric, and it must be preserved for future generations.”
Sumit Sharma, Tableau Incharge of Ramlila Savari, said, “There isn’t a single family in Chandni Chowk that hasn’t been involved with or familiar with the Ramlila tradition for five to seven generations. It began during Bahadur Shah Zafar’s era and was officially registered in 1924.”
“There has never been any obstacle to the Savari; the community has always stood united. Over the years, even the Ramlila grounds have been dedicated to this procession. Even today, many Muslim craftsmen continue to contribute. People from all walks of life make this celebration possible,” added Sharma.
Tradition to commercialisation
Rahman explained, “The festivity is all about tradition and culture, and it was an attempt to bring people together. We see that the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, introduced several elements to make Dussehra more appealing to the common people while also increasing the participation of the royalty in the festival’s celebration. This was when these festivities brought together people from all communities, regardless of their religious background, fostering a sense of unity.”
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Safvi, in her translation of Bazm-e-Aakhir, described the plethora of activities that once took place near the Red Fort. On Dussehra, the emperor rewarded courtiers and citizens in his durbar, being weighed in gold and silver, which was then distributed to the poor.
In the evening, the royal stable’s darogha would decorate horses with henna and jewellery, parading them under the jharokha at the Red Fort for the emperor’s inspection, rewarding the best grooms. Adorned horses and elephants would also visit nobles’ havelis for further rewards.
Tulsi Das’ Ramayana was recited in Persian, with Urdu and Persian verses composed for the occasion. Ramlilas in Delhi have evolved from small-scale productions to grand spectacles with budgets starting at Rs one crore. These performances now feature high-tech stunts, film and TV actors, and original scores by professional lyricists, along with modern sound systems and lighting.
“Every aspect has been revolutionised, from music and makeup to lighting and stage design,” said Sharma, who now oversees the direction. Today, the fairs include commercial activities like giant wheels, boat swings, and Maut Ka Kuan, with food stalls and entertainment overshadowing traditional elements.
